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Returning to Cocos Island, Costa Rica

guest contributor on SeaFocus
In 2008, Cindi LaRaia of Dive Discovery, returned to dive around the Pacific island of Cocos after a 19 year gap. Here's her story.

WOW is all can start with for this trip! First of all, we travelled with Undersea Hunter, a fantastic, well thought out dive vessel that holds a max of 14 divers, the crew is some of the best around and the chef is out of this world. There were great flat seas going and coming and when we arrived, we had very little current or rough water, which is a bit unusual for Cocos. Water temps were approx 82 F with thermoclines at about 75 F.

Our first dive site after arriving at the lush, verdant island of Cocos was at Manuleta. What a wonderful check out site - 3 white tips patrolling the bottom, 3 hammerheads saying hello, marble rays, a giant orange frogfish, goatfish schools and a green moray eel, welcomed us.

The next dives were the backside of Manuleta which has 3 cleaning stations for hammerhead sharks – we had from 30 to 60 sharks and everyone was snapping away in excitement at how close they were. Every day we had the greatest fun with the hammerheads, some days were better than others in terms of how close they would get. It was just amazing at how close they would come – I did not have to zoom my camera in and actually had to back up sometimes!

The night dives at Manuleta were the wildest ever! This is the only place documented to have thousands and thousands of swarming whitetip sharks of all sizes. You go in as the sun is setting, get sorted out and start to see the fast moving whitetips combing the bottom like a gang of bandits looking for trouble. To keep this action happening, you all shine torches in the same area. A large black jack fish uses the lights for hunting then the whitetips start this chaotic rolling around and over and under each other trying to get the other fish. It all becomes a mad frenzy of hundreds of sharks trying to get at the small fish... you have to see this to believe it!

We were told to stay 6 foot off the ground so as not to become mince meat, the sharks couldn't care less that we were there. This event alone is worth the price of the trip.

Diving on Cocos Island is quite an event, one of the rare places where the sharks are always there to see, but they are not the only animals. We saw a giant wall of jacks, and I mean not a school but a GIANT wall from top to bottom. There are huge schools of mullet and snapper, large blacktip sharks, even mating green sea turtles, all in clear blue warm water.

Images: courtesy of CindiLa Raia

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Scuba Diving report from Cocos Island in the Pacific
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